www.champanelle.net lacemakers of Saint-Genès-Champanelle 63122 France

Mrs Martine VIGIER's article from the association "LES DENTELLIERES" (the lacemakers)

Origins of Lace

There are numerous legendary origins of lace, differing from one country to another. However, the true origin of lace is lost in the mists of time. Needle lace and bobbin lace do not seem to share the same origin. Until Colbert unified them in the 17th century, their developments must be traced separately. The technique of bobbin lace appears to predate that of needle lace.

At the Textile Museum in Lyon, one can see Egyptian lace fabrics discovered in Memphis, dating back 2,000 years before Christ. Mummies from the 3rd and 4th centuries AD were found in Antinoe, Egypt, adorned with caps and trims made from a succession of different meshes, crafted from multiple linen or silk threads worked together. Near these mummies, spools still wrapped with thread were discovered -could these have been the ancestors of bobbins?

Needle Lace

Needle lace evolved from two distinct techniques:
A. Embroidered Net
B. Embroidery

A. Embroidered Net

The origin of netting also dates back to ancient times, as its first use was to trap animals. The word «net » appeared in the 15th century. This technique emerged at the beginning of the 16th century, and embroidered net played a significant role in interior decoration. The net was embroidered using a plain stitch.

Catherine de Medici (1519-1589) introduced the art of embroidered net to the French court and taught it to those around her.

B. Embroidery

There are various types of embroidery. Drawn-thread embroidery played an important role in the development leading to needle lace. This ancient technique involves removing a certain number of threads and then securing and reinforcing the remaining sections. When the potential of embroidered net and drawn-thread embroidery was exhausted, a new technique was needed.

In the 16th century, Venetian women (Italy) came up with a reversed approach: instead of undoing fabric, they constructed a framework of threads on a temporary support, which disappeared when the work was complete.
Thus, needle lace was born.

Bobbin Lace

Bobbin lace is derived from weaving and passementerie, likely appearing at the end of the Middle Ages. This technique was practiced by members of the Guild of Passementiers and Mercers, who wove ribbons, trims, and other borders by the ell (approximately 1.2 meters).

Some looms resembled long cushions, with threads wound around lead or wooden weights. Pins held the threads in place. In the 16th century, the passementiers attempted to monopolize lace production, but the easy-to-make equipment was not subject to the rules governing the ownership of work tools.

One privilege of the passementiers' guild was working with precious metal threads: gold, silver, or silk, which led to significant expenses. To cut costs, linen was introduced, but these craftsmen "refused to dirty their hands," and women took over the work, adapting the loom size to fit their homes.

It seems that bobbin lace first appeared in Flanders.

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